Some barrels and puncheons repairs can be made directly in the cellar, using the following tooling (from left to right):
• Flat punch, Punch, Chisel, Hammer, “Chasse”, “Bourre-joint”, Scraper, small Scraper for the end of the staves.
• Nails, conical spiles and flat wedges.
Reparable leaks :
1. Leaks on the head (barrel empty or full).
2. Leaks on staves end (barrel empty or full).
3. Leak on the join between the body and the head (barrel always empty).
Note: after repairing an empty barrel, always proceed to the leak proof test.
CAUTION
For your safety, all the operations described below must imperatively be carried out by an experienced cooper or by a professional carpenter. In some cases it will be necessary to bring back the barrel in a specialized workshop.
Repairing a leak on the head
1. With a scraper, clean the head on the involved area in order to localize the leak (1).
2. If the leak is localised on a precise point, use a punch in order to obtain a hole of the desired size and then insert the conical spiles (3). Cut the emerging part of the conical with the chisel (4).
3. If the leak is widespread, use the flat punch in order to obtain a hole of the desired size (5). Insert a flat wedge above or below the leak so that it crosses the grain of the wood (6). If it doesn’t work below, try above. Do not hesitate to use several wedges. Cut the emerging part of the spile with the chisel (7).
Note: Never insert a wedge in the joint between two pieces of head staves.
Repairing a leak at the top end of a stave
1. With a small scraper, clean the end of the stave on the involved area in order to localize the leak.
2. If the leak is localised on a precise point, use a punch in order to obtain a hole of the desired size (1) then insert the conical spiles (2).Cut off the emerging part of the spile with the chisel (3). Level out the area with the small scraper. (4).
3. If the leak is widespread, use the flat punch in order to obtain a hole of the desired size (5) and insert one or two flat wedges but always in the direction of the wood grain, never against the grain (6).The wood grain will tighten and stop the leak. Cut the emerging part of the spiles with the chisel (7).
Note: Never cut wood against the grain with a wedge, but insert it always with the grain.
Repairing a leak at the chime
1. Remove the staples from the two superior hoops (1). Take off the hoops on the leaking side area by using the “Chasse” and the Hammer in order to loosen the joint at the body and the heading (2).
2. Once the leak area is delimited, insert the flagging in the joint (3). Plunge the flagging into by using the “Bourre-joint” (4).
3. Put the hoops (5 & 6) and the staples back in place (7).
Note: after repairing, proceed to the leak proof test of the barrel as previously described (cf. Implementation).
Note: If you don’t have any flagging at your disposal, without removing the hoops, use alimentary paraffin. Heat it up and put it on the leaking area. Once dried, heat it up again slightly in order to fill up the wood holes. To be used as last solution.
